Tuesday, January 25th:
Tom: applies sea sickness prevention patch behind ear, the night before departure
Ellen: reapplies Tom’s patch after he swats what he misidentifies as a bug behind his ear
Tom: restful preparatory sleep – 10:30 pm to 2:30 am
Ellen: restful preparatory sleep – 10:30 pm to 2:30 am
Tom: ventures out onto the dark 4:30 am seas with 3 fellow sailboats
Ellen: ventures a guess as to which son will win the pre-sunrise relays at the marina
Tom: telephones Ellen at 4:32 am to report fellow boater’s engine trouble
Ellen: tells Tom of her lock trouble at marina bathroom and dock gate
Tom: sails off at 5:00 am for the Bahamian resort
Ellen: sails off at 5:00 am in a cab to the Ritz Carlyle Miami Beach resort
Tom: takes advantage of calm winds and flat seas
Ellen: takes advantage of Ritz’s door holding staff, velvet couches, laundered bathroom hand towels, and complementary ballroom coffee – wondering when the personnel will realize that she and the boys are not guests
Tom: didn’t want to overdo it with no sleep so opted to keep going the following night, taking turns sleeping 2-one hour shifts with other boaters while sailing, spotting each other with wake-up alerts if the sleeper was heading on a questionable compass course (i.e., back to Miami, which actually – according to history- wouldn’t be so questionable)
Ellen: didn’t want to overdo it with no sleep so opted to go to the playground, beach, botanical gardens, coffee house, children’s museum, Fort Lauderdale suburb via 1 bus, 2 trains, and 1 taxi, (while carrying a 35 lb. sleeping Elias to balance the 35 lb. backpack), and then do a week’s worth of grocery shopping with her girlhood friend whose apartment they’d be invading
Tom: navigates to Nassau by the charts and GPS
Ellen: navigates to Nassau via the children’s museum latitude/longitude computer game, and correctly answers the computer question about ancient sailors’ precautionary navigational technique whereby they tied the boat to the shore with a long rope (then jots it down in her log to suggest to Tom for the return passage)
Tom: avoids reefs, sandbars, and container ships, yet unsuccessfully avoids lengthy customs processing
Ellen: avoids continuing the conversation with the man on the train who insists she took his sunglasses, yet unsuccessfully avoids relieved pigeon at the train station
Their universes once again collide after Tom’s 36 hour cruise and Ellen’s 45 minute flight.
So, I guess we’ve entered the next chapter in this year’s adventures. That somewhat unknowing, stagnant phase slid into the transition time with Lisa. We easily fell into our comfortable kindred friendship. We spent the time going to parks, chatting, cooking, eating ice cream, and even some “girls night out” time – wine tasting, bookstore, movie. That near crisis car incident really threw us for a loop – analyzing the “what if’s,” our immediate responses, its symbolism (?) in a year of many other significant happenings, and life lessons. Jonas was questioning me on the potential consequences it could have had for my hat, if it wasn’t attached – keeping a safe distance from his real concerns.
Anyway, we arrived at Nassau’s beautifully decorated Bahamian airport. We walked to the bus stop, across from some caves – the left side of the road driving is a bit unnerving after our last car scene. After many a taxi offered to give us a ride for $30, we flagged down the $1 bus, since a written schedule or routes does not exist – our initiation to laid back living. Naïve to Island fashions Elias exclaimed “look at that man’s funny hat!” – referring to that of a fellow bus passenger. So there’s nothing like immersing ourselves in a new culture, we thought, as we drove past the Dunkin Donuts and Curves (I knew I should have kept that membership). On one hand the airport inspection team didn’t even open my bag (good thing they didn’t find that smuggled mushroom pate from the wine tasting), but on the other, we need to be beeped in when we want to enter the café. And for a good game of “chicken” you can try walking on the sidewalk’s metal covers, precariously balanced over the 50 foot drop to the sewers. Tonight’s boat stay is good practice for Elias, when he gets his “forcie” – as we gallop and vault with each passing wave. Then coming full circle, a boat that used to have a mooring next to us in New London, called on the VHF radio, hoping to drop by our boat tomorrow. Maybe we can ask him about how to obtain weather information – there’s no broadcast on Sundays – I guess no weather is anticipated on those days.
Sunday, January 30th:
It sure is a good thing we made it to Nassau, so that we can e-mail to our neighbors and sample Hagan Daaz abroad, paying an additional 50% for an already overpriced commodity. We'll probably stay a few more days, so we can patronize all the other American fast food establishments in Nassau. I wrote some other stuff yesterday in Word, but silly me, I forgot to lug my laptop along on today's dinghy ride. Actually, we found these computers by the cruise ship terminals. It's hard to be witty with the clock ticking on this service - so what's my excuse all the other times? So, today we were able to see our anchor line, all the way down to the anchor - nothing like viewing a wet rope - maybe that's what they mean about it being better in the Bahamas!
It was a regular Grand Central Station this morning, as Tom had 2 opportunities to play rescue hero. First the New Londonite stopped by. As he was chatting, a Bahamian fishing boat glided by – their engine had stopped working. Tom towed them to the fuel dock. Then John from Voyager dropped by, during which time a mayday (or “mayonnaise” – according to Elias) distress call was heard on the VHF. It turned out that the boat was anchored within our view – the woman had an asthma attack while diving. Tom and John helped them bring their boat to the land (the Bahamian volunteer coast guard didn’t know how to get to their described location, reassuring…), where an ambulance was waiting – the woman is okay. On our dinghy ride over to town, we recognized many of the boats in the harbor – past ICW neighbors – making it harder to remember that we’re actually in the Bahamas. Dance, however, is at Chub Cay (another island), but due to arrive here at some point. This afternoon we wandered around town – even the touristy section is pretty closed up on Sundays, which added to the ambience. I’m able to type in my cockpit office tonight – totally opposite conditions from last night – the water is like a looking glass.
Nassau Government Building
Atlantis resort, Nassau
Atlantis Aquarium
The Wonder Of It All, Mon! We visited the Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island. For a mere $29 per person, we could enjoy a hard sell sales pitch as we toured the facilities, complete with the temple of the sun and waterfalls (on par with Foxwoods’s rain machine). The staff refrained from shooing us along as we ate our classy peanut butter and jammin’ sandwiches in the Coral Lounge, although they did kindly escort Jonas and Elias back to us when they started entertaining on the grand piano. However, we did have a chance to view the pretty amazing aquarium display – complete with circling sharks, sauntering crayfish, ornate parrot fish, and gliding stingrays. We hooked onto a tour of people that did pay the $29, to learn about the marine animals adaptations (to a casino environment), as well as how many crystals comprised the overhead chandelier. The other boaters went on a rum factory tour – breezing through the bottle capping demonstration to taste test the product – probably not appropriate for the under 2nd grade crew – although I did sample a mean scoop of rum raisin ice cream. Jonas and Tom dinghied around with a magnifying pail – viewing coral, fish, and the less than submerged anchor of the boat next to us, with whom we now know we’ll become close neighbors.
It was somehow surprising to find familiar brand names in the grocery store – even Hebrew National, although we opted for the less expensive Yugo. A good example of sticker shock was evident when we peeked under the $2.99 cookie label to find the masked $1.49 US price.
Did the groundhog see its shadow? I sure hope we don’t have another 6 weeks of sunny weather in the mid 70’s! … Speaking of which, we figured out how to obtain weather information – some sailors network broadcasts it daily at 7 am on the marine radio – sleepy heads resort to holding up a moistened finger in the air.
So, eating meals with the youngins can have its focusing challenges under normal conditions (i.e., on land), but was basically hopeless today, eating soup in between wakes of the booze cruise tour boats, as they pointed out Elvis Presley’s former house to our port (appropriate nautical and booze cruise terminology.)
Once again, we rode the buses – sticking out like usual as the only nonresidents aboard. According to Bahamian bus etiquette, you call out “bus stop” when you wish to exit. The buses are privately owned so we listened to reggae rap aboard one, Whitney Houston on another, and gospel sermons on the third. Once the aisle seats fill up, you flip down a mini seat, starting from the back of the bus, that connects the seats on either side of the aisle – thereby trapping you in the back, especially if you don’t call out “bus stop” loudly enough. The bus took us beyond the cruise ship portion of the island to the much more meager living areas.
We had company tonight – John from Voyager – Jonas entertained him with lego helicopter stories as Elias sat on John’s stomach, sharing his blankie and manatee book – these kids need to get out more. They did get out for some haircuts – although I was a bit concerned to see that the beautician had a do that closely resembled a crew cut – she spared the boys that fate, but they will need more suntan lotion on the backs of their necks.
Nassau is a bit of a tough town – this week included reports of a stolen dinghy engine, bank robbery, and riot. However, it feels safe - people have been very friendly and helpful (more so than in Miami). It looks like we’ll be staying a while longer since a windy front is due in tomorrow, and will last for a few days.
I’m still plugging away at this second children’s literature course. The last class was from a library sciences perspective – evaluating literature. This course is from a literary perspective, examining different genres over time (Mother Goose, fables, fairy tales…). There are more lessons, and more questions per lesson, but all the reading is from a 1,300 page anthology (that even beats Anna) – which is a bit excessive for the backpack but at least I don’t need to find or order books in this more remote existence. I enjoyed looking more closely at some Mother Goose rhymes, which tend to be recited by rote without contemplated for meaning or value. Here’s more detail about what I mentioned…the name Mother Goose first appeared in “Tales of My Mother Goose” – a collection of fairy tales published in Paris in 1697. The old peasant woman who tended the geese was the accepted symbol of the storyteller. Especially now, when I’m more cut off from everyone besides the crew, this course gives me my own niche.
Thursday, February 3rd:
It was 2 in the morning
We were nestled in bed
When we heard a loud scraping
I’d better check, Tom said
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy Missa Gaia called
Ahoy, ahoy, our family is appalled
He peeked out the hatch
As a ship swiped our side
Our wind generator broke
But that vessel continued to ride
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy oh please turn back
Ahoy, ahoy, a spare generator we lack
The “folk” sailboat was unmarked
Entering a foreign port
Without requesting permission
Or any lights on to report
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy what are they doing?
Ahoy, ahoy, our questions were ensuing
We saw a small powered boat
Escorting the sailboat through
It hovered nearby in the dark
Loud voices from its 6 manned crew
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy what shall we do?
Ahoy, ahoy our imaginations how they grew
Trying the harbormaster on VHF
Shining our spotlight and blasting our horn
On 911 we called for assistance
Until the Defense Force came along
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy and phew, phew, phew
Ahoy, ahoy no pirating boarders it’s true
He listened to our story
For the ship he left to look
Assuming they were Haitian traders
He’d return with the information he took
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy we were relieved
Ahoy, ahoy help arrived we believed
Things may go bump in the night
But all is okay we can say
We all slept happily ever after
And will tour the pirate museum today.
Ahoy, ahoy, ahoy from the crew and the mama
Ahoy, ahoy they say it’s better in the Bahamas.
I could have sworn I dropped my watch here
[checking anchor status with a viewing bucket]
Shiver we timbers
Haitain trading vessel
So, as indicated in the chantey, we did go to the pirate museum today. The looting began at the door – when we paid our admission. Then we moved on to the library, which used to be a jail – what does that say about Nassau’s view of libraries, or jails, for that matter? We “did some time” in the children’s cell. During our sightseeing, we got caught in the rain right in front of the rum cake factory – (we figured if we paced there long enough it was bound to rain eventually). Anyway, tomorrow I look forward to mommy-on-her-own-time. All in all, touring the bustling downtown Nassau with the younger set went pretty smoothly, but I was motivated to claim this upcoming time slot during their daily 5:00 p.m. release period –which today entailed running back and forth at top speeds, alternating with tumbling – as I received consoling smiles from those passing by on the docks.
Upon reviewing the sea chantey, I realized that the “poetry” sacrificed some information – such as that the mysterious hit and run vessel did move on for good, after hovering nearby for about 15 minutes – and that the officer did not return with the promised information. We later learned that these trading ships are often escorted into the harbor by a Nassau police boat (i.e., the one we saw with them after the swipe), since the sailboats do not have engines and thereby lack steerage – good thing that police boat was there guiding them. It makes one wonder if the officer that came to assist us was also the accomplice in the hit and run incident, which would explain why he never returned with the details. When Tom followed up the next day, another officer, who didn’t have any record of this, jotted some notes on a scrap of paper (according to the official scrap of paper jotting protocol). Then when Tom followed up again today – after Tom located the offending vessel in the harbor - they told him the sailboat had a quarantine warrant (good thing we didn’t exchange saliva after the damage), so now that this is a legal matter, we’d have to wait until next Monday, since no legal personnel would be in today (Fridays must be a legal holiday).
On an unrelated note…in defense of my general writing style, my current Children’s Literature chapter on the nonsense genre refers to this “art form” as “an inspired selection and arrangement of incongruities.” I can’t wait to read the chapter on junk food, “the essential antithesis of nutrition to develop one’s discriminating palette.”
So, Nassau allows us to rent DVD movies…in honor of our exotic trip, we rented The Garden State, since NJ was on the ICW, afterall. I’d recommend it.
Saturday, February 5th:
Caffe Caribe may sound good, but the Parmalet tends to offend my coffee - oh no, I think the Internet Lady was reading this over my shoulder - her ax just chopped off 3 of my minutes! - anyway, I am enjoying my peace - the little ones are great, of course, but can drain me quickly - I don't realize how much time is spent motivating them to do what they don't want to and to not do what they do want to - before I can go to sleep my tranquility requires that I do some course work, write in my "log," and read Anna. Although I know this year may sound like we kick back alot, we're actually always on the go - so it was kinda nice this morning when we had a homeschooling holiday and actually just hung out on the boat.
Anyway, we read up today on the "out islands" - they sound pretty tranquil, many are part of a park system. I look forward to that change from the congested Miami and Nassau. There's this dichotomy to see everything there is to see in each place vs. kicking back, slowing down, ... - maybe when I retire, or did I do that already?...
Saturday, February 5th:
I'm interspersing my e-mails with my children's lit course, perusing this book store, and eating carrot cake (they were sold out of conch cake) - but I just found some lines from "The Owl and the Pussy-Cat" that I should have put in the last e-mail about kicking back here:
"They dined on mince and slices of quince,
Which they ate with a runcible spoon;
And hand in hand, on the edge of the sand,
They danced by the light of the moon,
The moon,
The moon,
They danced by the light of the moon."
Okay, let's see, where do you think I can pick up some quince? And I'll have to put dancing by the light of the moon on tonight's agenda - how am I doing with this new approach?
Actually, I neglected to mention that the owl and the pussy cat were off sailing the seas for a year - and, I found this great book of Bahamian folktales - more incongruities
I hope I didn’t interrupt the Super Bowl – go team! – now which team was that again? So, all the boating men folk – except of course the girly men - are at the First Down Sports Bar, doing some male bonding. I hope they recognize each other without their boats. You can identify them by their VHF’s, GPS’s, and BUD’s. Us women folk are stoking the boat oil lamps, as we “down” the rum cake, “tackle” our coursework, and “kick” back as we write puns that are a bit out in “left field” – oops, wrong sport.
So, the Bahamian philosophy of rules are rules, except for when they’re not, applied to today’s grocery shopping…I’d checked twice about today’s hours (confirmed by 2 different people at 2 different times) – 7am-2pm – so when we arrived at noon, the manager told us they were closed, but he’d let us come in if we were quick (he must have had Super Bowl plans) – we would have been quicker if we didn’t need to spend time selecting the lowest labeled item from amongst several identical items. Then we returned our pirated (common theme in these narratives) DVD – which flashes the number to call, throughout the viewing – if we rented an illegally copied movie (which is what the video store owner explained to me as the reason it might be a bit dark). Meanwhile, Tom was trying to make a purchase with his travelers check (you know, the ones that are supposed to be just like cash) at another store, where the manager told him they don’t usually accept them, but would this time for a mere 50% processing fee. Speaking of rules, I learned a fundamental boating cooking rule from today’s hands-on experience: don’t try to bake a quiche in a rocking oven.
We’re shipping out Tuesday, with the usual suspects, which will be history by the time you read this from our next connected location. Since our cell phones don’t work here, one of us will sometimes bring the portable marine radio to shore, to communicate with the other. Besides knowing that everyone is listening to us, we’re supposed to use all that VHF jargon: over, roger, copy that…it’s hard to take it seriously, I feel like kids on paper cup and string sets, chatting between trees, preferably quince trees.
We actually had a babysitting offer tonight - from another boating couple we frequently bump into (figuratively). We took them up on it and went to Fridays Come Soon (the Bahamian version of TGIF?), with a convenient dinghy dock. I had some very spicy Bahamian jerk chicken with plantains. Luckily we made it back without running into any traffic. Jonas of course was psyched to have someone new to entertain.
So it looks like we’re not leaving tomorrow after all – Omache (Alvin and Sally) are staying to help their friend on Off Call (Joe – he must be a retired doctor, or telephone operator) dive for his lost anchor – and Voyager (John) is waiting for some necessary mail from a marina at which he had a conflict with the manager – these were the crossing-to-the-Bahamas mates. I guess that gives the winds and seas one more day to calm down.
You mentioned the boating community looking out for one another. It’s kind of funny…John had noticed that we’d left for a few hours without the kids – and now everyone (thanks to VHF) knows about Joe’s lost anchor, John’s argument, and our delayed plans, even if they don’t know who Joe, John, or we are – it’s almost at the point where boaters who have never met recognize each others’ voices – Tom and John tried to have a “private” conversation on the marine radio, to discuss tomorrow’s plans, attempting to identify the talking channel in code – which probably just made it all the more tempting for everyone to try to find them on the radio – I’m sure we had a big listening audience when Tom called the Defense Force to follow-up on that 2 am surprise, proven by people stopping by to say they “heard” about our situation, and was everything okay. One evening with John, we even compared painful VHF conversations we’d overheard – there seems to be a need for pay-per-listen radio here. Today we listened to the conversation of 2 boaters we knew, who left Nassau and were heading towards Allan’s Cay (our destination) - Venerable was having a particularly terrible time of it. Actually, I think people do have lives most of the day, but tend to listen early morning – following the weather broadcast (kinda like everyone’s favorite soap opera) and early evening. Now that we’ve done all our preparing for the delayed passage, we may spend part of tomorrow at the cloisters (Elias was disappointed to learn it’s not the oysters).
the Cloisters, Nassau
Hibiscus