Ironically, 2 of the 5 ballads I was assigned to analyze for my course, were sea chanties – both with dismal conclusions. Then I had a dream I was watching huge waves breaking, as I sat on the 28 Evergreen porch. Luckily neither the ballads nor the dream accurately set the scene for today’s 42 mile passage across less protected waters, to the Exuma Islands chain. It was actually a pretty calm journey, after I got over the 1st 2 hours of apprehension. We had waited a day for our 2 buddy boats, but one still couldn’t leave, and the other left without us – although today was probably a better day to leave anyway. Even so, there was too much swaying for the boys to play below. Usually there’s a continual need for activities/entertainment, but today for some reason they just hung out – maybe the Dramamine had something to do with that. The movement also tested my ability to make peanut butter (all natural!) and jelly sandwiches – I felt like I was attempting this task in outer space, only there was gravity pulling everything horizontally. The avoidance of coral reefs is the Exumas challenge, since many are not marked or indicated on the charts. Therefore, we need to stay alert for large dark masses below the water. This spurred the embarrassing conversation I had with myself: “That sure is a large dark area next to our boat. It almost seems to be following along with our movement. Hey, doesn’t it look like two sails? …Never mind…”
We decided to go to Norman’s Cay today, instead of Allan’s, since Norman offers better protection from the windy front forecast for tomorrow. Not only that, but Norman’s Cay was notorious as a profitable cocaine smuggling operation – bullet holes in buildings and a sunken airplane serve as reminders. On a different note, it is a pristine island (there are no basic services and only one commercial establishment – a burger eatery with $9 burgers – I guess there’s no competition). The island is inhabited by 12 families – hard to imagine their lifestyle. Tomorrow we plan to explore its caves and beaches. On the surreal side, after concluding our passage, we entered the harbor of this almost deserted island, to find about 30 closely anchored boats – including Dance, and many others we’d anchored with previously – a Camp Vero reunion, of sorts. Lots of folks on dinghies were circulating, welcoming the new arrivals. For some reason, I associated this image with arriving in heaven and seeing long lost friends/family members/acquaintances. We joined Dance, Venerable, …on the beach for a dinner campfire – extending that Camp Vero analogy.
plane crash from Norman's drug smuggling days
norman's
exploring Norman's by dinghy
When we entered the Norman’s Cay harbor, one of the boaters greeted us with “welcome to paradise.” It really does look like something out of a fairy tale. So maybe here and now is one of the real answers to what this journey is all about – often we get to one place, anticipating the next, but now we’re here – sounds like an analogy to life. Across the turquoise water, we have this view of a tiny island, sand along its periphery and a sole palm tree. It looks just like Tom’s screen saver – well, maybe it’s the other way around. Yesterday was very calm so we set off on dinghies, with Dance and Namu (as opposed to Nemo), for the caves. Although we never did find the caves, we did discover conch (is that the plural too?), a sting ray, and this magical basin area, about 2 feet deep, and almost completely surrounded with lava-esque rock structures. We also came upon a deserted beach which, as Jonas noted, had no footprints – not to mention bottle caps. Although the land itself isn’t that aesthetically beautiful - more on the scrubby side - I guess it’s the pristine conditions, and the aqua to turquoise to teal water hue variations, that create the awe. (Although our water and milk supplies are dwindling – do cows have sea legs? - as our laundry and garbage piles are mounting). I normally prefer mountains and woods to the tropics, but I am enjoying this natural world. It’s easy to get used to the hustle and bustle of cities, as well as the suburbs, and tourist towns, but when I’ve left all that, I realize how much I don’t like it, and do like this – getting away, or better yet, getting to (as in nature). It’s easy to forget to feed your soul, which I guess I can do as well on our front porch, or with a book and coffee atop Fort Trumbull’s hill. Sort of along this vein, …
“What I like best in the whole world, is me and Piglet going to see you and you saying what about a little something? And me saying, well I shouldn’t mind a little something. Should you Piglet? And it being a hummy sort of day outside and birds singing.”
“I like that too,” said Christopher Robin. “But what I like doing best is nothing.”
“How do you do nothing?” asked Pooh.
“Well, it’s when people call out at you just as you’re going off to do it, what are you going to do Christopher Robin, and you say, oh nothing, and then you go and do it.”
“Oh I see,” said Pooh.
“This is a nothing sort of thing we’re doing now.”
“Oh I see,” said Pooh again.
“It means just going along, and listening to all the things you can’t hear and not bothering.”
“Oh,” said Pooh. They walked on, thinking of this and that.
Today the winds are howling, with over 30 mph gusts. The usual scurrying dinghies are all tied to their respective boats and everyone is holed up. There’s supposed to be a beach get-together this afternoon, for those who dare to brave the conditions – not sure how brave we’ll be.
Later that day…
Well you know us, you can’t hold us back from a good party…oh wait, maybe that’s just Jonas and Elias…it’s almost as if the ICW was a cocktail party for the Camp Vero through Bahamas dinner party – I didn’t realize it at the time, but people were checking each other out, maybe subconsciously, for future buddy boating and socializing – what were previously “ships that passed in the night” have become this boating community
 norman's cay |
no please, you feed the baracuda, Waterick
bananakwits, Waterick
Friday, February 12th:
Phew – we made it to Waterick Wells in time for the cocktail party – what else would you expect in a remote Bahamian national park? Our food staples are diminishing, so we brought the stale cookies and Parmalat (I wonder what distinguishing features Parmalat cows have) – the other boaters must be professional out island cocktail party goers – I can’t quite figure out how they managed to bring hot cheese/meat quesadillas and salmon mousse, when we’re down to canned beans and saltines – I must have missed that requisite copy of How to Plan Ahead for Evening Soirees when Marooned on a Desert Island. Jonas occupied himself with the Hygenic Arts Festival style machine gun at the park office deck (a perfect natural park image), with a sign that read “to be used for jetskis only.” Actually, we were planning to stay another day or so at Norman’s Cay but our name came up on the mooring waitlist – you know those all too familiar VHF announcements: ”your mooring is ready, sir.” This time the weather conditions were more tame than predicted, so we had a smooth 25 mile voyage to Waterick Wells, one of the many islands that comprise the 20 or so miles of the Exumas national park system. It’s real pretty and peaceful here – hiking trails and beaches everywhere – the snorkeling is supposed to be extra amazing, and these cool tiny birds with yellow throats seem to hang out at the park office deck cocktail party – I think they’re partial to the salmon mousse. When I checked the Audubon book, it looks like the common yellowthroat – which “unlike other wood warblers that winter in the tropics, it winters in New Jersey” – can you blame him?...On a related note… the Jewfish is commonly found in Bahamian waters - I guess Miami Beach was too crowded – and the guidebook states “the Jewfish is capable of providing enough food for a large banquet” – probably offsetting the lox and gefilte fish. Anyway, Dance’s name was called too, so they’re 4 moorings up from us. We also seem to be “following” Lyla from place to place, even going back to the ICW days. The islands are relatively close, so we can eavesdrop on boaters on other islands – it’s kind of neat to hear Voyager and Omache and Venerable – all on different islands – and check in with them on how they’re doing, where they are, and we’re they’re headed. I wonder if boaters screen their VHF calls…
So in an effort to free up more boat space, Elias swallowed a piece of Jonas’ K’nex set.
I tried calling the boats named Off Call and Recovery Room, seeking a doctor, but my assumptions were wrong, unless I wanted to place a phone call or order Ed’s Barbeque pizza. Instead I made a general Norman’s Cay inquiry and received some related advice: order the gorgonzola spinach pizza instead. Actually, the advice was helpful, but not necessarily welcome, concerning the dissection of stool for toy parts. The timing of this is impeccable, garbage cannot be disposed of on the out islands. Thus giving the poop deck new meaning, I readied my medical tools (plastic catch-all bag and plastic dissecting fork) for the first deposit. Not to be graphic, but…since bathroom humor is always Elias’ personal favorite…the first especially dense specimen measured in at about12 inches – the swaying, voyaging vessel upped the ante, challenging my steady hands and gagging control reflexes – no buried treasures were discovered – I guess I’ll bring the kitchen sieve on tomorrow’s beach hike…Jonas was concerned as to whether he’ll be able to reclaim his K’nex piece.
Saturday, February 13th:
Alvin (Omache) volunteered to contact another boater with a sideband radio, who in turn would contact Bentley (a doctor) on Salty Paws (another boat we anchored with in Miami), for additional medical advice. Alvin seems to be the main personality of the VHF airwaves. I’m sure the VHF listening audience enjoyed our graphic description of the situation. Bentley’s advice helped, as did his regards that everything comes out alright in the end (ha).
Today we climbed onto our dinghy from the boat, as a barracuda circled in the water – nothing to worry about though, we hear he appreciates his Exuma National Park protection status, so doesn’t stir up trouble. We took a short hike, which ended up being a long hike, with Dance. We climbed over hills and through ponds, as we found and left (take only photos…) lots of beautiful shells and coral, a few lizards, and beautiful scenery. As legend has it…a long time ago, a ship of missionaries sank near Boo Boo Hill, from where you can still hear their voices at night. For some reason, boaters leave memorabilia on top of this hill – I guess the aforementioned K’nex dissection garbage bags are not what they had in mind. The highlight was the blow holes – eroded holes in the rocks overhanging the seas, so that when the waves roll beneath them, the force of the waves roars and blows air (and or water) upwards. Jonas and Elias had great fun placing these buoys, attached to poles, into the holes, and trying to catch them as they spouted into the air.
I was going to attach all these excerpts in the second of today’s e-mails – did you receive the first one? – but it was so slow, I gave up. Can you imagine…you just can’t get fast internet service in these remote out islands – what else to they expect us to do here at this spectacular national park? Actually, there are some patrol boats around - we heard that the park warden’s life was threatened by poachers – Bahamian fisherman trying to feed their families – an ethical question…
off the beaten path, Waterick
Waterick Wells
Boo Boo Hill - boaters' memorabelia, Waterick
We didn’t make it to the next island for the Valentine’s Day dinner, appropriately advertised on the emergency VHF channel, with a complete description of each course. However, we did decorate the boat with handmade heart streamers, heart straw holders, heart placemats with person targeted Roses are Red rhymes, and of course, a heart shaped brownie cake.
begging bananaquits