1st place for originality - model sailboat regatta event
March 13th:
This morning I got my hair stuck in the wall fan – although I guess the consequent “crew” cut is appropriate in my present nautical role. And…I’d like to announce that we’re the proud parents of the 1st place winner for the model sailboat event – in the originality category – the capsizing category winners were already spoken for. I hope Mr. Pearson* didn’t win the originality award in his younger regatta days. Jonas considered naming his boat “Passing Wind,” but changed it when he saw all the judges taking steps in the opposite direction. Actually, from the perspective of my former youth programs related employment, the Children’s Day activities were quite well orchestrated. Bahamian children joined us visitors for obstacles courses, relay races, etc. Last night was the variety show, including everything from a spoof on shoveling snow, to Bahamian drummers, to a fire thrower (which neglected the “do not try this on your boat” warning). The show was kicked off with a homemade curried chicken and rice dinner.
We created a synopsis of the ICW for Nammu – which besides being the goddess of the sea, also refers to the world before the world began (or something theoretical like that) – since they’ll be heading north back to Canada (they flew from Canada to Florida to buy their boat, and then continued from there). Anyway, in developing this overview, we pleasantly reminisced about many of the towns we enjoyed along our southbound voyage.
 on your mark... |
children's day activity
variety show
March 14th:
We tried again for that island tour, arriving at 9:00 am – 1 hour in advance. This time, the registering hotel clerk told the guide that we’d signed up for a 2:00 tour. In the end, it worked out. The guide grew up on George Town, so had a lot to share, especially about the history and herbs. She frequently stopped the bus along the way, picking plants alongside the road. She gave us a sensory herb demonstration - brewing tea for us to sip, pressing handfuls of medicinal herbs to our nasal passages, feeding us dug up, home baked treats - the narcotics squad was waiting for us as we departed the bus. Other less than “kosher” components included applying a squished berry to a participant’s open lip blisters and falling upon/embracing another unassuming passenger. We had this amazing cracked conch lunch, prepared by the daughter of Mama (as in Mama’s Bakery Van – proud sponsor of the 25th annual regatta), served in an outdoor bar in the midst of a remote settlement.
We gave ourselves an impromptu going away party, inviting Dance, Nammu, and Voyager aboard for champagne (good thing the champagne boat comes on Mondays) and dessert. Elias says he needs to head home so that he can give me one of the toy dolphins he left there.
March 15th:
The George Town Reality (?) Show is winding down for the season – boats gradually exiting in different directions. As in Roman times, the Ides of March was, for us, a significant turning point – 180 degrees – okay, now you can start defrosting the ice cream. Lucky for us, our travels allowed us to keep track of Voyager’s status in today’s regatta race, by VHF. So as not to get ahead of the contestants’ progress (in 3 knot breezes), the sports announcer set his voice on record album speed 78 – I believe the chess tournament was going on simultaneously in the racers’ cockpits, to keep them alert. I heard that many of the ICW sailors spent the first 15 minutes trying to locate their sails.
It felt good to get “on the road” again, after a 2-1/2 week hiatus. Today’s dead calm passage, amidst following seas, made it hard to remember or believe in the existence of those recent squalls at anchor, as did the squalls make it hard to conceive of dead calm. Also, along the theme of contrasts…the lush, vibrant water, surrounding the arid, stark landscape, makes them each seem more of what they are. And even further on the contrasts genre, the worlds of the boaters and residents were certainly foreign to each other. I probably experienced more of the local flavor in the Bahamas than on other trips I’ve taken in my life; their lifestyles and outlooks, although fascinating, are so hard to internalize.
We’re back at Blackpoint, along the quieter banks again – and due to the calm weather with south westerly winds, we traveled out in the Sound in one day north, what took 3 days going south. Now that we’re here again, I think Blackpoint may have been one of my favorite Bahamian islands – the settlement has rustic charm, the people are welcoming, vehicular traffic is sparse, there are more palm trees, and, on a mundane note, the services are available (and water and garbage were free). I made arrangements for Jonas to attend the local school for the morning – I thought it’d be interesting for him, as well as me. We took a walk to one end of the island, with a restaurant shell that provided shade for reading, as well as steps for club housing and nuts for filling empty rum bottles. On the other end of the island we were able to climb over to see the ocean, a pretty pink rental cottage, and a beach where people camp in tents that are participating in a several week long sailing excursion on tiny day sailboats. We also spent some time watching the mailboat unload.
Another windy front is expected tonight, so we may be here a few days. The weather recently seems hotter and buggier – we put up the screens tonight. Usually 4:00 p.m. – tea time – has become my favorite part of the day. It starts cooling down, it’s before the dinner and sleep preparation routines, and the boys are in a happy trance watching their one hour Monsters Inc. movie, for the 103rd time.
Tonight we watched a DVD that Dance copied for us. It was intended for their families, but included a lot of us. It gave a pretty good feel of things, although we questioned our nightlife when we found ourselves “watching” Cruisers’ Net reruns (who left/found which sandal on which beach).
March 16th:
Remember all that stuff about looking forward to a few days at Blackpoint? Never mind.. It is not protected from westward winds, which coincidentally have been blowing strongly. Jonas threw up again at anchor and our sleep never made it to REM.
exploring Allan's Cay
get a load of this - tourists with cameras, as far as the eye can see
March 17th:
Well it’s St. Patrick’s Day – so much for the luck of the Irish (Tom’s part Irish – maybe my Rumanian heritage was the dominant gene). We made it to Staniel Cay again, anchoring by some islands that were supposed to break the winds’/waves’ force – not! Then we reanchored in a different area – more protected from the next impending squall - but requiring two anchors, one of which cooperatively wound 8 times around the prop. Tom was looking forward to diving with the sharks anyway, while he untangled it. Okay, let’s relax…well maybe after that shower bilge pump that’s not pumping is evaluated. Later the night…why does it seem that the sailboat that anchored in front of us appears to be backing up slowly past and behind us? After much flashlight shining and horn honking (good thing he had all that practice with the trading vessel), the man on the other boat fixed his slipping anchor line.
Today’s highlights include:
The front is now a back, although its entrance and exit was much less dramatic than usual.
Home baked chocolate chip cookies were delivered – thanking Tom for dropping their second anchor for them (“Night Star”).
No goats were seen at Goat Beach – they must have been visiting at Pig Beach.
March 19th:
Today we found out that Tom’s father received his birthday package, slit and resealed, minus one George Town cap – good thing the pirates aren’t big on reading…the book arrived unscathed. Maybe the cap will protect the head of that trading vessel captain, next time he side swipes a wind generator blade.
Yesterday we outdid ourselves – we made it further than planned – you know how that sailboat speed can run away with you...We were destined for Waterick Wells but returned to Norman’s Cay. Good thing we had Elias to entertain us with his mix and match knock knock jokes, i.e., knock, knock – who’s there? – boo – boo hoo? – orange you glad I didn’t say banana again?
Friday, March 11th:
Liz R.: This remote Allan’s Cay is a perfect secluded hideaway – the only place we inhabit on the earth.
Rhep Tyler: Hey, that’s just what the sign says about us.
Liz R.: What sign?
Rhep Tyler: The one that guy with the “Spring Break or Bust” t-shirt is photographing.
Liz R.: Why is that kid poking a grape on a stick at my nose?
Rhep Tyler: I heard his mother tell him the stick would allow him to keep a safe distance from my jaws.
Liz R.: Didn’t they read the part of the sign that says we’re herbivores?
Rhep Tyler: I’m considering going omnivore after watching those hoards disembark from the Exumas Excursions cigarette boat.
Liz R.: Watch that guy with the Gary Larson nametag squeal as I suddenly race in his direction.
Rhep Tyler: Maybe we should think about relocating.
Liz R.: I heard Pig Beach is lovely this time of year.
where's that Solarcaine